Love thy neighbour

The Age

Saturday February 5, 2011

BY LARISSA DUBECKI

NEXT DOOR DINER This old pharmacy is now run by hospitality pros, dispensing food suited to the season, served in style. WHERE AND WHATThere isn't much around this little strip of shops on St Georges Road, which lend this bar-restaurant its status as a hidden gem. The fact that it's keenly designed without actually appearing to be is half the battle. Don't let the neighbourhood vibe fool you, however: Next Door has some serious young hospitality professionals behind it.WHERE TO SITThe redesign of this former pharmacy has maximised its utility. Concrete floors, reclaimed wood and semi-industrial fittings make a cool but comfy style statement. Flying solo isn't scary when you can perch at the bar; groups can take the bigger wooden tables, while along the wall there are intimate tables a deux.WHEN TO GONext Door opens at 5.30pm on weekdays and Saturdays and starts to fill up around 6.30pm; on Sundays it's a leisurely noonkick-off and goes through to late.DRINKThese guys are proud Victorians: it's a small but punchy all-Oz list including a small premium selection. Also four boutique Victorian beers and a couple ofciders.EATLeilani Wolfenden is the chef (and one of the owners) and has a deft Euro-focus underpinned by artisan produce, reasonable prices and presentation that makes it all look easy. At the moment the menu is singing the praises of the warmer weather: a gorgeous salad of cured sardines with black olive tapenade crostini and crudites; calamari, vongole and curling strips of zucchini in a chilli and garlic-spiked broth. For something more homely it's hard to go past the roast chicken, saddling up with soft polenta, sweetcorn and gravy for soulful comfort food. There are plenty of new-wave salads, too ��� maybe bulghur, almonds, currants and pear ��� well-rounded things with more personality than the word "salad" can convey. It's all designed to share but no one's going to force you.WHO'S THEREThe "build it and they will come" principle appears to have worked: the people smart enough to patronise this pretty special place don't fit any particular demographic.WHY BOTHER?Because the service and the food are excellent, with a friendly, low-key vibe. This is the neighbourhood restaurant that everyone wants.NEXT DOOR DINER204 St Georges Road, Northcote, phone 9939 1350.

© 2011 The Age

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